5/20/12

PROJECT #16: WRAP DRESS WITH VINTAGE VEST

© 2012 Runway Sewing. All Rights Reserved.  

This is a preview of draping projects to come! I draped this wrap dress straight onto the dress form. The vest was also draped on the form but I made a pattern diagram below so it will be easy for you to follow.


The vest was made from an embroidered mesh fabric. The fabric was expensive so I made a small vest using only 1/2 a yard of fabric!


The pattern below is in 3 pieces. The back and front are exactly the same excpet at center front and front shoulder lines. Trace the front and back the same except follow the blue dotted line for the front shoulder seam lines.

You can adjust the measurements to fit your body. For this tutorial, the vest is a size Small/Medium. Note, you will need to add 1/4 to 1/2" seam allowance all around the pattern.

A. Body length = 17"
B. Shoulder slope = 3 1/2"
C. Armhole straight = 8' (curve the armhole in about 1/2" at middle of amrhole.)
D. Bottom side curve = 3/4"
E. Shoulder width across = Chest +2"
F. Chest width 1" below armhole = 20"
G. Sweep = Chest -1/2"
H. Adjust the front shoulders as the blue dotted line.





I used this lace seam binding for finishing the inside of the vest. The lace binding creates a vintage feel to the vest and looks very pretty.

Draping the dress! This dress is made from a matte jersey fabric. The front panel has the grainline draping diagonally from shoulder across body. In this tutorial, I do not give specific meausrements but took pictures to show you the steps in the process of draping a garment. Usually, you would use muslin but I wanted to do a quick job so I used the fabric directly on the dress form.



The front shoulders and back skirt seam have pleats added for fullness. Once the front and back pieces are draped, the lines are cleaned up after laying flat on the table.


Here is the finished dress. Worn with a belt, this dress looks great on any figure! Happy Sewing!

4/17/12

PROJECT #15: TYE DYE COWL NECK DRESS

© 2012 Runway Sewing. All Rights Reserved.  
This project is a little more difficult then the previous projects but you can do it! You will draft your own pattern using the specs given. This sample is a size Medium. The mannequin is a size 6 so if you are smaller or bigger, you can just increase or decrease the width of the pattern.
This dress has exposed raw seam allowance at side seams and at cowl neck. The wide neck is held in by sewing a 1/4" elastic at back. This way neck opening will stay in place and not fall off the shoulders. The edges are kept raw and rolls for a deconstructed look.
Here is a inspiration board for other tye dye ideas! You can also just buy a tye dye kit from a craft store and dye clothes that you already have for a fresh new wardrobe!
Material:
1.) 1 1/2 - 2 yards of 60" wide knit fabric
2.) 1/4" elastic
Duration:
Drafting Pattern: 2 hours
Cutting & Sewing: 2 hours
Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Drafting the Pattern: It is best to use pattern drafting paper. Make sure to add at least 1/4" seam allowance all around the pattern. Note, there are total of 4 pc's. See below for each panel how many to cut.
The front and back are the same except for the neck and cf lines. For the construction of the neck piece, make sure to fold the ends and match to the shoulder seams. the CF cowl edge will naturally fold inward and stay put without extra sewing. See picture of cowl neck on mannequin. The last piece to sew will be the elastic at back neck. The length of the elastic can be determined based on how much you would like the width of the neck to sit on your body. This sample measured, 8" across.
When drafting the pattern draw the CF and CB line then the widest width and longest length. After you cut out the pattern pieces along the seam allowance, make sure to walk the seam lines to make sure the length match up. If the seams do not match up in length, you will have to adjust it. Make sure to also add notches so it is easier for you to sew the pieces together accurately. Good Luck and have fun!